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This is a really tricky question, when is it a Training problem, when is it Bitting problem, or is it both? To be honest, there is no hard and fast answer and as Bit Fitter I have seen both sides to the equation. My role is to ensure the horse is comfortable in the mouth, crucial for effective rider communication. Without a comfortable mouth, a progressive rider and horse relationship cannot be achieved. Previously in other blogs I touched on the importance of the horse responding to cues rather than resisting them. We get them to this responsive stage from figuring out the correct pressure points that the horse accepts. Different Bits have different pressure points, this is what we experiment with in a Bit Fitting. When a horse has a Bit put in with the wrong pressure points that they don't feel comfortable in, the resistance can be very obvious but also very subtle- bracing, head tilting, leaning, tucking behind, overreacting, tossing, the list could go on. When it comes to training, it is crucial that the horse understands what the Bit means. One action from the rider should only have one answer from the horse, for example the rider wants the horse to come rounder, so they do little squeezes on the Bit and the horse gives what they percieve the correct answer by coming rounder. Then rider then wants to slow down, so again they do little squeezes on the rein however the horse just comes rounder in its frame. The rider MUST only have ONE answer per aid, it is when the horse is confused with these questions that they can show resistance. Dr Andrew McLean talks a lot about this Equitation Science, making sure the horse understands what it being asked of it with science in mind. Another example is if the horse becomes dull to the Bit due to constant pressure. If the horse is constantly pulling/being strong for a reason (whether it be lack of breaks, half halt, turning aid, being downhill etc) then putting a stronger Bit in is not going to miraculously fix the problem as the horse does not understand what is being asked in the first place. This is particularly tricky with young horses who are still being educated about what the Bit means, this is something I am to write about in my next blog. So after some back and forward; a horse needs to have a Bit that they are comfortable in to progress, however the Bit is not going to fix your training issue if the horse does not know what is wanted from the rider when the Bit is used.

A couple of decades ago the classic single jointed Dutch Gag was all the rage as it helped a lot of strong horses stop, it gave riders control when they had struggled before. However, with all the thousands of alternative options and with what we know now, it really surprises me it is still so commonly used today. Let me explain... The classic single jointed mouth piece Let's start with the mouth piece- a single jointed Bit squeezes the tongue (pictured), since it has no locking up action it can continue to squeeze the tongue to no limit, sometimes even cutting off circulation. The cannons of the mouthpiece are typically joined together but these huge joins/knuckles which create very targeted and uncomfortable pressure points. The cannons are also usually very straight with no curvature, this creates less surface area on the horses mouth and therefore it is harsher on the mouth. The single jointed action also has a squeezing action on the horses bars; now listen very closely and remember this for later- squeezing LIFTS the head. Horses that go in a single jointed mouthpiece generally have high head posture, I guess from trying to get away from the pressure! Next is the cheek piece, the 4 loops are very distinctive of the Dutch Gag. If I used my maths properly, a rider riding on the bottom ring applying 3kg of pressure on each side of the horses mouth, will then result in the horse feeling roughly 12kg of pressure in total. In a snaffle the ratio is 1:1, meaning the amount of pressure you put on is what the horse will feel. Leverage Bits are different, the pressure you put on the reins is going to be multiplied by the length of shank. So basically, small rein pressure + leverage bit = huge amount poll pressure. The thing about leverage Bits, (remembering what I mentioned before about the single joint lifts the head) is that they LOWER the head/neck. So by putting a head lifting mouthpiece and a head lowering cheekpiece together, you get the awfully confusing dutch gag. Now don't get me wrong, some horses do just go well in them for no rhyme or reason. From a logistical point of view, I would've thought opposing forces would be extremely confusing for the horse, one pressure telling them to bring the head up and the other pressure telling them to lower it. This is often when we find horses resist instead of respond, rather than slowing down smoothly and softening to the Bit, we often see a abrupt shorten of the gait and a head toss to get the pressure away. I think now we have sooooooo many softer, more ergonomic, horse friendly and rider concious options it is the sensible choice to explore those Bits. A good friend once said to me "A calm horse isn't always obedient, but an obedient horse is always calm" I think this applys to a lot of horse related topic, especially this particular one. If the horse is confused about the Bit and showing this (seen as disobedient), then it is never going to be a calm ride. Confused about what kinder options are out there that will still give you control? As well as an extensive range of snaffles, I carry leverage Bits ranging from Pelhams, universals, running gags, bevels and more... although, I can't say I carry a range of Dutch Gags!

Your entering the equestrian store, stating that your horse stands at 17hh and that you need to find the right size Bit for him. Because he is a big horse, a big Bit is recomended. You get home, put it in and its got a couple of cm of Bit showing both sides so you feel reassured that it is not going to pinch, get caught, rub, etc, better to be too big than too small right? Sound familiar? What if I told you that I often see more horses with bits that are too big than too small? Most of the time, the rubs, wounds, abrasions, and splits are caused by bits that are too large, as they move excessively in the horse's mouth and create friction. Occasionally, when a jointed bit is pulled through the mouth, the joint can get caught on the lips if it's too big. Having a bit that is too large also means that the mouthpiece doesn't apply pressure where it is supposed to. For instance, if a ported bit is too big, there is a risk that the corners of the port will rest directly on the bars, causing discomfort. We also often see turning being delayed due to the mouthpiece being pulled through. Bit rings can be put on to help if the Bit is too big, they shorten the bit by 0.5cm each side, however these are not a long term fix. Some Bits are indeed fitted too small, which can pose certain risks, particularly on the lips. High-quality Bits, are crafted to be more forgiving. For instance, the Bore Hole (the hole at the end on the mouthpeice where the ring slides through) in Bomber Bits is chiseled out to be smoother and angled in a way that makes it highly unlikely for lips to become caught. Certain mouthpieces are tricky to fit correctl y, for instance, the classic single jointed snaffle, while a popular choice, can pose challenges in terms of fit. If not properly adjusted, this type of bit can easily cause wounds and discomfort for the horse. The design of the single jointed snaffle means that it can shorten up during use, leading to unnecessary pressure and squeezing on the horse's sensitive lips. Some mouthpeices need to actually be bigger than the size of mouth due to the mechanics, this is something we talk through and establish at a fitting. I have a mouth measurer that I use at fittings to get the correct size of the mouth, then based on if its a loose ring or a fixed ring I go up and size and depending on the mouthpiece we may need to increase the size again if its a semi broken or boken mouthpiece, we also consider the anatomy . You can also measure your horses mouth at home- using a plastic rod (pencil like thickenss) put it in the horses mouth and make a mark with a vivid on either size of their lips. Take it out and put a tape measure against it. Feel free to send me a picture of what size your horses mouth measured and what Bit you are currently using to check if it is correct. I work in mm when measuring mouths and Bits as it is the most accurate and universal.

Hanging snaffles are often described as a Bit that has poll pressure, what if I told you it is fact did the opposite? For a bit to have any leverage, the rein must be attached BELOW the mouth piece, another way of thinking about it is that the mouth peice is the 'pivot point' and for the Bit to rotate and apply poll pressure there needs to be an attachment for the reins below the pivot point. In the ever popular Hanging Snaffle bit, the rein is attached to the same ring as the mouthpiece which means when any slight pressure is taken, the rein will slide up the ring to be in line with the mouthpiece, this allows for the Bit to be still and stable in the mouth since there is not going to be a lot of change in the horse mouth when the rider takes up the reins. An example of a Bit having leverage is a Universal 2 1/2 ring Gag, when the rein is attached to the bottom ring, it is fixed below the mouth piece so does apply poll pressure. As shown in the diagram below (thanks to my forever patient horses), you can see when the rein is taken, the cheekpiece in fact bulges OUT, so actually relieves the horse of the pressure (hence being dressage legal). The hanging snaffle is a very popular pony Bit, and for very good reason as it gives great stability and helps with turning since the Bit cannot be pulled through the mouth. If you had been considering using the hanging snaffle for a few more 'brakes' then the Bevel snaffle is a popular alternative as you have the option to attach the rein to the bottom loop for a wee bit of leverage OR have it attached to the main ring, simply acting as a plain old regular snaffle. Remember, often when we fit the correct mouthpiece the horse won't need a stronger cheekpeice but this is something we can work through together. More questions? Feeling lost with what Bit to now use? Feel free to flick me an email and we can have a chat.

As promised, this blog will by soley on Nosebands as they seem to be a hot topic of conversation. The reason I think animal rights activists use the tightness of nosebands so reguarly as there weapon is because it is so easily measured. You can physically SEE the straps indenting the horses flesh, and unless the noseband is pretty much flapping in the wind; they will produce pressure on the horses nose which is uncomfortable. I personally use nosebands on all of my horses so am not 'anti' noseband as such, but I do feel there is a happy medium- where the horse can move its jaw around enough to be relaxed but not excessively open the mouth to avoid unwanted Bit pressure (all of which could be avoided by getting the right Bit Fitted ;) ). One of the conceptions that is not common knowledge is that nosebands DO cause poll pressure when done up tightly (when I say tightly I am referring to not being able to fit 2 fingers between the noseband and the nasal bone of the horse). Because a horses face is shaped like a cone, any noseband/flash done up will pull down on the horses poll. Test this yourself by putting your fingers carefully underneath the horses head peice, then get a friend to do the noseband up and feel the pressure increase, in fact a tight noseband can cause more poll pressure than every leverage Bit can. The nasal bones are extremely fragile, the horse skull that I use for clinics has the nasal bones wrapped as they can snap off so easily. Unless your noseband is fitted correctly with 1-2 fingers width below the facial crest then it will press on the nasal bones, bearing in mind there is only a thin layer of skin to cover them. I find the basic hannovarian noseband fits accpetably on most horses, grackles fitted correctly are also kind. Drop nosebands are extremely hard to fit properly without impinging on the flesh, in 99% of pictures of horses wearing these you can see the pressure limiting their breathing. Remember horses cannot breath through their mouth, only their nose so it is extremely important that we do not restrict this. The horses nerves and blood vessels are delivered through the foreamen, one of these is positioned right below the facial crest- ironically exactly the noseband sit unless you have it 2 fingers width below. The foreamen delivers tear ducts, salivation, tongue movement, nostril movement and so much more. In a fitting we will use a hannovarian without a flash so the horse can give as much feedback as possible. A horse happy in the mouth will not generally open its mouth, they only open their mouth to avoid unwanted pressure. It is up to the rider whether to chose to put a flash back on when they go home but often it's not needed with a correctly fitted Bit. Pictured below is my noseband taper gauge to measure the tightness, if the noseband can fit this gauge in, then its FEI legal, if it isn't; then it is inflicting pain and your horses breathing. Every client gets one at the end of a fitting, it's all part of the opportunity to educate and improve the horses welfare.

There's no doubt there is an art to choosing the right Bit for your horse, but the Bridle itself is not be overlooked. There are HEAP of options out there, all ranging in quality, design and all important cost. There is certain Anatomy to keep in mind when finding a good fitting Bridle, the TMJ (Temporomandibular Joint) joint is at the top of the head where a lot of buckles bunch around, pressure on this joint is uncomfortable for the horse. Buckles should sit in line with the eye area. Foreman is the passages for vessels and nerves, there is one just below the end of the facial crest and another at the bottom of the lower jaw by the interdental space. Facial nerves effect salvation, nostril movement, tear ducts, tongue movement and so much more, they are essential to the horses natural functions. Nosebands can sit very close to these causing pain if they are compressed. The Nasal bone is along the ridge of the horses face where is turns into the soft flesh towards the nostrils. This is a VERY soft bone, in fact, on the horse head than I use for teaching purposes (pictured) I have it wrapped as they break off so easily. With all of this in mind, a good fitting bridle has a well fitted browband (not too tight) that doesn't press on the temporal muscles, often browbands with some shaping fit better. For nosebands, think of a 2 and 2 rule- the noseband sits 2 fingers below the facial crest and you can fit 2 fingers between the noseband and the nasal bone. Theres lots of different shapes headpeices now days, the best ones are the 'intergrated' ones, as the pressure is more evenly distributed. Some horses aren't suited to the really wide anatomical shaped ones as they dont have a big enough flat surface area over the poll for the headpiece to distribute even pressure over so they actually end up doing the opposite. A headpiece with some form of shaping to give the ear cartilage enough room will be much appreciated by your horse. Often buidling your own bridle is your best bet at ensuring you get the correct size and fit, Flexible Fit are a good option for this. I carry a range of bridles with me for fittings, my standard Hinterland cavesson bridle with clips (for easy changing of bits!), Rambo Micklem, Shockemohle Equitus Omega, and Waldhausen X-Line Hackamore. I was going to include nosebands on here but I feel that topic really does deserve it's own blog, especially in light of todays rules and social license. Watch this space!

I found myself in need of a job that allowed me to continue to ride my team of horses, compete, hunt, and still have a social life, easy right?! I trolled all the job search websites, nothing jumping out, so with the hints from my bank account that I do in fact need a job, it became apparant that I needed to create my perfect job since I could not find one. My favourite horse (I know your not suppose to have favourites but he is indeed a very special patchy twat) didnt have the easiest of contacts, forming a habit of getting his tongue over the bit and flapping it in the wind often for the dressage judges to see. There is a tendency for nosebands to be tightended in scenarios like these, but having worked at Jody Hartstone's yard for a year, this was something I was very aware not to do. Instead, I listened to what he was trying to tell me, sparking an interest as I realised just how much there is too finding the right Bit especially since there are soooooo many options out there. So, after stewing on the idea far over a year, I decided to take the leap and invest A LOT of money, time, and effort in to creating my own service for people that were in a similar scenario. I studied in the NS Acadamy, gaining a certificate in Bit's and Bitting Science, completed 'The Bit Fitter' educational course, as well as spending time learning from Bit fitters in person.

I hale from a little old village called Pohangina, in the Manawatu region. Growing up with horses my whole life, progressed through Pony Club to get my A & H certificate. I was often the kid who didn't do the jumping part of rallies as my ponies were dressage/showing based, its never too late to change though... as my team of horses now consists of not only 2 dressage horses, but also 2 hunters! Belmont Bedsox (11yr Belmont Geronino/Gruen Horn De Trichon) competes PSG, showing his Sires Gypsy Cob lines can produce a talented dressage horse. Glamourvale (3yr Glamourdale/Whisper) really is a black beauty that I have intentions of taking overseas in his later career. Macadamia (from the back blocks of no where so who knows what breeding is in there...) was my orginal hunter, and now part time Eventer. And last but not least, Archie (13yr TB by Iffraj) who is my main hunter, can't beat a good TB on the hunt field. After school, I left home to work for Jody Hartstone for a year in Raglan, with just Bedsox in tow (who at that stage had some devil-like alterior personalites). I learnt a lot of dressage, but also a lot of useful tools with float loading, tricky to drench, needle shy, rearing, anything problematic really, she has inspired me to put horse welfare first and to understand things from the horses perspective. As well as teaching and taking on the odd schooler, I work part time on a dairy farm just down the road, this adds variety to my life which can be so easily dominated by horses, which I sure many of you can appreciate!